FAQ

WHICH DIRECTION IS THE TRIGGER SUPPOSED TO POINT? We are often asked this question and can state plainly that the best method is to position the trigger in such manner that the tip of the trigger is pointing away from the snare loop. As the spring arms experience very slight movement when a target animal engages the device, the free arm of the device is the most likely arm to experience that movement; therefore it is by far best to clip the trigger to the free spring loop that protrudes away from the snare loop and animals neck. Having said this, do realize that success will be realized even if the trigger is positioned backwards and is pointed towards the snare loop, and "trigger direction" is not a critical to the successful use of your device. However, "trigger position" is an entirely different issue and must not be confused with "trigger direction".

 

WHERE SHOULD THE TRIGGER BE POSITIONED/CLIPPED ON THE SPRING?  With a Magnum Stinger, the trigger must be clipped on the "wire-end" or "dead side" of the spring eyelet, and should be clipped in the 9 o'clock to 10 o'clock position of the eyelet to ensure the spring fires at the proper time. Trigger position is a very important aspect in achieving success for this device. If the trigger is set in the vertical/12 o'clock position, the device will fire too hard for optimum results. If the trigger is set in the 3 o'clock position on the "live-side" of the spring loop, the trigger will be very difficult to fire and poor performance would follow. If you are experiencing difficulties with the spring not firing, you are clipping the device in the wrong position. When set properly, even red fox will readily fire the device.

To help individuals understand the terms "dead-side" and "live-side" understand that the eyelet is a part of the spring. The side of the eyelet that is on the spring arm is the live side, it is a literal part of the spring that is active and under the load of the spring. The "dead-side" or "wire-end side" is the side of the loop that the spring wire ends on and is not a part of the load-bearing side of the spring.

When the trigger is clipped to the wire-end or dead-side of the eyelet, it will flex and cause your spring to fire positively and ensure fast and humane death. 

 

ARE WASHERS NECESSARY?  Washers are used simply to keep the end stop of the snare from being pulled through the eyelet of the spring. Position the trigger between the s-hook breakaway and the spring, pointing the tip away from the loop, and use the washer between the free arm of the spring and the aluminum stop.

If you prefer to use your trigger backwards, then still use a washer, however position the washer in between the s-hook breakaway device ("BAD" - Break Away Device) and spring. In this manner, the washer prevents the spring from riding into the s-hook and causing interference.

 

WHAT SNARE LOCK SHOULD I USE?  The snare lock is the heart of the snare and it is extremely important to use the best lock that you possibly can. You should use a Cam Lock style lock and it must have gripping teeth either stamped into, or formed during the manufacture of the lock, or may be filed into the snare lock with a Cam Lock file. The more aggressive the gripping teeth are in the snare lock, the better the performance/results that you will achieve in regards to humane death. When locks have been used and have received visible wear, the lock should either be discarded or some time must be spent to reform the aggressive teeth with the cam lock file. Beware of teeth that have a heavy groove channel wore down the center from the cable, such locks must be replaced and not re-filed.

 

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE DELUXE SERIES STINGER KILL SPRINGS AND THE ECONO SERIES?  Deluxe Stinger Kill Springs are made of highest quality spring steel and will not rust.  The Econo Stingers are made of Music Wire and are equally as strong as the Deluxe model, however music wire can rust in time and lose strength when the rust attacks the spring. Though cheaper, the Econo spring is still a high quality spring, and can save the trapper some money and yield equal performance. Music wire can be painted to extend the life of the spring. Our springs are North American made and of the highest quality found, specifically so to render proper humane deat to treat our animals in the most compassionate manner. Weak lower powered springs are not capable of the same performance. 

 

DO I NEED TO USE A TRIGGER?  The original Stinger Kill Spring was designed in such a manner to be used without a trigger, and was built so that a coyote sized animal could compress the spring, as a "Spring Assisted" category of snare.  When using this type of snare, without a trigger, it was critical that the snare be of significant length to enable the captured animal to generate enough power to be able to hit the end of the snare with enough force that the animal would provide the energy to compress the spring that in turn would cause humane death to follow.  Using a trigger on this same snare with the original Stinger Kill Spring caused the death rate of coyotes to rise significantly, and doing so would now turn the snare into a bona-fide "Power Snare category of snare", as the snare now carried stored spring energy that would administer that energy once the captured animal fired the device.

It should be noted here that both types of snares differ greatly from the original common neck snare, originally referred to as the "steel self locking snare" which was patented in the very late 1920's or very early 1930's. The type of snare that falls into this category is a basic steel cable snare, simply equipped with a one way sliding lock and at the time perceived to be a humane device in comparison to snares that did not have one way sliding locks. This third category of snare is currently being referred to as the "Killing Snare" by the scientific community, however, a more precise and applicable description would be "Basic Snare" or Basic Killing Snare"

With the Magnum Stingers, it is best to use the Senneker Powersnare Trigger  with these powerful, heavy duty springs. Once the trigger had been made, it was no longer necessary to restrict the power of the spring to what a coyote could compress, therefore heavier springs were made and tested and the Magnum Stinger Kill Spring was designed.  This also is a true powersnare and the scientific community is quickly coming to recognize the effectiveness of this device. 

It is not recommended to use the Magnum springs without the Senneker Powersnare Trigger.